Well,
it’s about time I tell you about the place where my family and I live.
After
all, this village has a long story and deserves some more attention.
Many
of you have asked me about it and actually with many of you we drove by it while
touring with the Grand Tour of Italy, on our way to San Marino ( the small,
independent Republic, do you remember ? ) and Venice.
The
name of the village is GRADARA.
It is located in the Italian region of The Marches, on the Adriatic – East
coast, very close to the bigger town of Rimini. Say about 3 hrs drive South of
Venice, along the same coast.
It’s
situated on a gentle hill, not even 2 mls away from the sea, say 5 mins with
“motorino” ( one of these terrible mosquitoes we call scooters !! ).
According
to the last check, the actual population is 3381.
Main
business today for the people here is definitely tourism, due to the fact that
the village – although small – it’s well known since ancient Roman time
and has a long story.
Improved
very much in 14th and 15th century with a castle and city
walls, the old section offers still today a perfect example of a middle age,
fortified town.
This
atmosphere attracts hundreds of thousands visitors all year round, especially
during spring and summer when the close by Adriatic Riviera beach resorts become
busy with tourist coming mainly from Northern Italy and North European
countries.
But let’s go in order !!!!! As we are in the Historical Section, the History of Gradara has to come first !!!!
A
drawing of Gradara of 1628, the accuracy is incredible. See actual photo above !
It’s
name already witnesses an ancient Roman origin : GRATA AURA = GRADARA. Probably
the actual name comes from the fact that back in 3rd c. bc the Romans
had a military base on top of this hill, and along with the usual barracks they
had also temples. In one of them, the most important, they worshipped services
on its main altar : GRATA AURA ( main altar).
The
reason why Romans chose this hill for the military base was definitely due to
strategic reasons : the control of the most important road ( basically the only
one until 2 centuries ago ) they built on this side of the Italian peninsula : the
FLAMINIA.
Maybe you do not remember, but several of you, the ones on the Grand Tour of Italy, drove for many miles along it and actually for a few miles ON IT. The day we left Assisi, those first 2 hours drive to the East Coast ( bypassing Gubbio ), practically that is the newest version of the ancient Flaminia Roman Way.
Gubbio
Roman amphitheatre
Perhaps
you remember we passed by an old Roman bridge built on two arches. Well,
that’s it.
Incidentally,
the Flaminia road ( ordered to be constructed by the Flaminii family, consuls
of the Roman Republic on 3rd c. bc) connected Rome with Rimini,
crossing the Apennines all the way to the East Adriatic coast ( see our previous
chapter on Gubbio).
Romans
chose this particular hill among many others because at the foot of the hill
there is practically the South-East corner of the large Po River Valley plane.
The plane here ends in a bottle neck created by the Apennines from West and the
Adriatic Sea from North. All the roads of those days across the large plane converged
to this point : no better place to kill several birds with one stone
!!!
We must say, no much is left of the Roman time in Gradara, apart from some material re-used to built the old section of the middle age castle. The identity of Gradara is definitely medieval.
It
was at the end of 1100 that a watch tower was built to show the supremacy of a
local family : De Griffo.
Soon,
the potential of this tower was noticed by the nearby stronger family of
Malatesta from Verucchio – Rimini, who offered the De Griffo a proposal they
could not refuse ( “ …size this bunch of money and go, otherwise we simply
kill you !!! … “ ).
Actually,
it was in the mid 1200 that the family chief
MASTINVECCHIO
= the
OLD MASTIFF just to
“photograph “ the type, took over. He
was over 100 years old when he died, could you believe it ? in those days, it
was probably like living 150 years today !!!
The
actual castle started to be built by his son PANDOLFO Malatesta
at the beginning of 1300 using the existing Mastio
(Watch Tower) as a strong corner.
Other
Malatesta members during the years completed his work, just remember they have
been the Lords in this area for almost 2 centuries.
It
was during the first period of their rule that the famous true love story of
Paolo and Francesca took place. We’ll talk about them in a while, they deserve
some room on their own.
As
you may recall, allover in Europe in those years, families fought hard against
each others for the possession of land. Here it was not different. For several
tens of years the Malatesta defended fiercely their properties from the attacks
of the SFORZA family ( by the way, a side branch of that family became successful
Lords of Milan, Leonardo da Vinci lived by them for quite a while = Last Supper
is in Milan ! ).
Eventually,
after another long siege, the Malatesta lost the battle and in 1463 Gradara became Sforza
possession, as
well as other castles in a ray of 20 mls.
The
Sforza’s rule ( about 3 generations ) has been important for the Fortress of
Gradara, because it was one them, JOHANNES
( John ) SFORZA
who decided massive
works in it towards the end of 1400 : he basically transformed the castle that
was a military construction with its typical severe style ( small rooms, very
basic services ) into a sumptuous residence, typical of the period: Renaissance.
He
had rooms enlarged connecting some of them, he built a nice covered passage in
the inner courtyard, but especially he decorated the interiors with beautiful
frescoes done by some local artists, some of them still existing today.
He
did it for a particular reason : he wanted to offer his second wife ( the first
died during delivery, unfortunately very common in those days ) the best
reception.
This
young girl, aged only 13, was destined to become famous : her name was LUCRETIA BORGIA.
Do
you remember the “hot blooded “ Pope
Alexander the VIth, Rodrigo
BORGIA
? Well, she was her
daughter!!!
I
know, it sounds strange to accompany popes and sons, but those days chastity for
clergy was basically an optional. Very frequently popes and cardinals had “
accidents “
Concerning
Alexander VIth , historians say he had 6 accidents, those are the ones
we know, and one of them was the beautiful Lucretia.
Due
to this and even more to the fact that Alexander 6th didn’t like
anymore the Sforza family for political reasons, he annulled the marriage after 4
years on the fact that John Sforza was impotent. Mind you, with the wife 200
miles away, it’s a bit hard to get descendants !!!!
Anyhow,
the poor Johnph got stuck, Alexander was far too strong to fight. He reclined on
another wedding with a Tiepolo girl, who gave him – finally !!! – a son :
Costanzo.
Unfortunately,
the young kid died at the early age of 2, don’t forget in those days the
infant mortality was extremely high.
Costanzo
dead , an already aged John could not extend the family any longer : with his
death, this SFORZA family branch died out.
At
that time, another Pope followed Alexander VIth : JULIUS
IInd ( by the way, you must remember him : he was the pope-general, he was
the one who spent more time in the battle fields guiding his troops rather than
in churches saying mass, he was the one quarrelling with Michelangelo during the Sistine
Chapel’s works ).
Julius
2nd belonged to the DELLA
ROVERE family, and guess what ?
As soon as the lordship of Gradara and surroundings became vacant, he gave it to
its family members, just to play in the safe side.
So,
the DELLA ROVERE took possession of this area, but they didn’t particularly
love Gradara, they preferred to live in the nearby Pesaro and Urbino cities,
bigger and more important.
Let’s
say, with Della Rovere, a slow decline for Gradara and its castle began.
Several
other local families occupied it during the last centuries, none of them worth
mention, as they did nothing for it, actually they left it eventually at the end
of 1800 in a very poor state.
We
all must thank a generous man from Belluno ( Dolomites area ), a rich engineer who fell in love for the fortress and bought it in 1923.
His
large financial possibilities plus an extremely convenient friendship with the
political Italian chief of the time ( DUCE ! , DUCE !
) enabled Umberto ZANVETTORI to proceed with heavy restoration in the castle.
At
his death, he left in the will that he wished to leave the whole property to Riccardo PANAREO, but this will was contested by the Italian State. Whishing to spare the
Italian State a long, exhausting and eventually losing battle, Riccardo decided to
drop the litigation, at the sole
condition of turning the fortress into a museum : to share its beauty with the
rest of humanity.
And
so it is. Today the Malatesta Fortress is a State Museum with a nice collection
of furniture, paintings and frescoes, although the real masterpiece is the castle
itself.
If
you pass by, give me a call. After a nice glass of sangiovese wine, I’ll take
you there : you’ll love it.
The
castle, let the wine alone !!!!
Back in 1295,
Giangiotto MALATESTA, was
pacing his empty council room in the castle of Gradara with his head full of
whirling thoughts.
The
servants shuddered when they heard his steps. The awkward rhythm was
unfortunately familiar to them.
Giangiotto
was severely limited on one leg since birth. And hunchback. And almost blind in
one eye.
Let’s
say, mother nature was extremely busy somewhere else the day he was born.
But
he was the Lord, nevertheless. He was a MALATESTA.
If
his body had limits, his smart brain and his ambition had none.
He
already conquered vast land around Rimini on the North side of his domain, and
Pesaro on the South. But it wasn’t enough.
DA
POLENTA family, Lords of
Ravenna, to give one of her daughters –
FRANCESCA
( Francis )
- as Giangiotto's
spouse.
Weddings
were very much used in those days to establish political and military alliances
between important families and … “…once married Francesca, who knows !!!
Maybe some mysterious accidents may happen to the Da Polenta, getting
them out of the way …. “ Giangiotto's eye ( one
!! ) sparkled at this thought.
“
My Lord “ – the chief ambassador, Federico, said – “ the DA POLENTA will
be honored to welcome you as a part of the family. They recognize your valor,
honesty and generosity. Actually, they count very much in this last of your
virtues : they require a substantial dowry. But this will not be a problem for
you, Sir, as you know how profitable this marriage will be. The problem is
another : Francesca. Will you permit me to speak frankly, Sir ? As these my
words may offend you … “ the ambassador bowed his
head and waited for his lord’s response.
“
Go ahead ! “ was the sharp answer.
“
Well, Francesca is a girl of some character. She is already well known about choosing
her male companies, and apparently has a very refined taste ….”
Federico dropped slowly these last word down, so were his eyes, expecting
the reaction of his Lord.
“
And so what, Federico …“ shouted
Giangiotto, already close to rage.
“
Well, my Lord, this girl appreciates some virtues that are not among the many
you have ….” Federico knelt down, aware that in no other times in his life he
was so close to death !!
“
YOU BASTARD !! ! How do you dare …… “ Giangiotto hit with his sword the
set of candles on the table and with unthinkable agility for a man with his
problems, turned sharply towards Federico.
The
blade of his sword stopped an inch from Federico’s neck. And remained there,
trembling, for few, endless moments.
“
No, it’s not with the rage I will accomplish my plan ….” and slowly
Giangiotto lowered his sword.
Federico
finally swallowed, he never sweated that much. And it was February.
“
The girl wants to play games ?? Well, she will soon learn from his future master
!!! Federico leave now, advice my brother Paolo ( Paul ) to reach me here
immediately. MOVE !!!
“
No
other order was obeyed by Federico with such relief. He left the room as he was
flying.
According
to chronicles, Paolo was younger, more handsome ( not hard to believe that ! )
and with a gentle, refined character. Perfect for the role.
In
those days, due to the large distances and the difficulties of traveling, the
practice of marrying by proxy was not rare. Especially among royal families,
living in cities thousands miles apart, wedding were celebrated not necessarily
with the actual brides. What was important was the families agreement. For the
rest, there was plenty of time.
After
having seduced the unaware Francesca, it was only on the altar that Paolo
revealed the plot : the real husband had to be Giangiotto.
At
that point, Francesca, alone, knew she had no chance and with death in her heart
moved to Gradara.
Incidentally,
historical
evidence report that Francesca and Giangiotto had even a baby, Concordia, of
whom traces were soon lost.
Giangiotto, as every other lord of that time, spent no much time in Gradara
itself. He was always busy in military campaigns or long hunts.
We
know that Francesca passed most of her long days reading books, trying to forget
Paolo.
By
the way, what happened to him ?
We
know by historians that he actually had a brilliant career as Podestà ( Police
chief ) in the important city of Florence, but he also never forgot Francesca.
In
his frequent returns to Rimini, in no time he covered the short distance to the
castle of Gradara to see her.
Even
the greatest Italian poet –
According
to his words, Paolo declared his true love to Francesca while they were reading
together a book about another love story : Geneva and Lancelot.
Obviously they were too much taken by the passion not to notice the sad teaching
that Geneva and Lancelot’s love reveals.
It’s
interesting to know that Dante places the souls of Paolo and Francesca in the
Inferno ( hell ), which is understandable, after all they were sinners, but he
concedes them a favourable condition : first of all they are together, meaning
Dante was aware of their true love, second their souls are like birds in a
gloomy, stormy sky of the hell. Considering the great pain all souls suffer in
the various circles, Paolo and Francesca are not that bad, after all !!
Returning
to our story, Giangiotto had only one eye, but evidently the one he had was pretty good.
He
realized that something was going on between his wife and his brother.
Probably,
he wasn’t caring that much for the personal implications, but it was his
public reputation that was in discussion.
So,
one day, he left for one of his numerous war campaigns in great pomp, but after
a few hours, secretly, he returned to the castle and through one of the usual
hidden passages, he popped up in Francesca's bedroom.
And
he found out that Paolo was showing his butterfly collection to Francesca.
And
it was not on a book.
Blinded
by rage and jealousy, he brandished his sword and killed them right there.
Interesting
is a further interpretation given by another great Italian poet : Boccaccio (
famous for Decameron, pretty knowledgeable about love matters !!! ). According
to him, when Giangiotto appeared to the stunned couple, he wanted to kill his
brother first, but Francesca – what a heroin ! – threw herself in between
hoping to give his beloved the chance to escape. While she was hit first, a
frantic Paolo tried to leave through the same passage used by Giangiotto but a
nail trapped his cloak blocking his run. Those few moments were fatal for him
as Giangiotto turned around and completed his murder.
WWWOOOWWW
!!!!
By
the way, the locals of Gradara never forget the great teaching of this story.
You
will never see cloaks or loose garments around here.
According
to local tradition, in summer time, in the nights of full moon, if you browse
around the Gradara castle, you can hear the voices of Paolo and Francesca.
I
can personally add, after the second bottle of good sangiovese, you can hear
them any other night !!!
